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NZXT Lexa S Review
Packaging
Construction
Installation
Conclusion
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Installation

The Lexa S is being tested with a Core 2 Duo 2.93ghz in an ASUS P5N7A-VM with 4 GB of Corsair XMS2 2GB modules and an Intel X-25 SSD. This will be powered by a Thermaltake Litepower 450W ATX12V power supply. These are all fairly new components just a couple months old.

The build started with the all important main board back plate, it snapped easily into place and aligned very well.

 

 

Main board punchout plate

 

Next I mounted the power supply on the bottom of the case. At first the cables were loose and then I and routed some of the cables through the grommets to get them out of the way.

 

PSU rear view

 

 

PSU Installed

 

 

After the PSU I installed the metal stand off points to match my main board in the case. It is important to use a tool to get this metal stand-offs completely screwed in to create a level attachment plane for the main board. I then mounted the main board using the screws that matched the stand off threading both of which were provided.

 

 

Mainboard

 

 

Powering the main board with two plugs, the main multi-pin plug and the 12V 4 pin line for the CPU. I was surprised but I was just able to plug in the 4 pin line for the CPU and route the cable without any slack. It is not optimal but will do the job until I can get a extension for this. The documents describe running both PSU cables through grommets but this is just not feasible for me or most builders without extra long cables. Since this is a fairly common CPU position it would have been a nice to have power supply extensions included from NZXT.

 

 

Mainboard closeup

 

 

I mounted the the SSD drive in both the provided sled and then back into an ICY dock 2.5" to 3.5" bay adapter. It is nice that the Lexa S comes with a SSD sled. After trying both adapters I went back to the 3rd party adapter.  If I was building a system from scratch I think it is great that NZXT provides the dual SSD 2.5" to 3.5" adapter in the box.  

 

SSD Bay

 

 

After the disk was installed I moved to the graphics card. I removed two rear vented slot covers and mounted the video card. The fit was great since the Nvidia 285 I have is on the long side of video cards. I was able to route the main power under the video card to get it out of the way.  

 

Video card in

 

 

I mounted the DVD writer and ran power and SATA cables where appropriate. I also ran dual PCI-E power cords to the video card. One 6 pin from the PSU and the other by combining two molex connectors with a 6 pin PCI-E power adapter.

 

 

SATA in

 

 

Then came the dread of most builders and modders; cable management. This is where my excitement about the Lexa S features were dampened. I found that the case failed to provide cable ties to tie down the cables to the provided mount points. Luckily being a geek, I pulled out a favorite type of tie down that can be reusued and proceeded to manage cables.

 

 

Cable mess

 

 

I quickly found that the case does not provide enough space to hide all the cables you need to do a simple build. This would become even more of a challange if you had multple drives installed and need to route more power and SATA cables around. After thinking about this challenge I did realize I could get shorter SATA cables and route them directly. I could then focus on routing only power cords together in a zig-zag pattern to the tie downs. Finally I could bundle the other cables and shorten their lengths with zip ties.

I may return to the drawing board on this when I have small zip ties and try some new ideas. As a simple fix would be more space on the backside of the main board tray between the side panel would have let me hide the cables with out so much complexity. The solution to this would be an additional. 5" of depth on the back side of the case to hide those power molex ends and other cable bulk.

 

 

 

Cables managed sorta

 

 

After using about 10 black cable ties I had the cables into a respectable bundle. I choose to hide the extra cable ends (bulk) under the SSD location. When it came to closing the back side of the case I turned the case over and laid it flat to be able to gently push down the cable bundle between the case skeleton and the cover plate.

 

 

General progress

 

 

While the picture looks like the cables are still impeding airflow they are not. This is the best cable management I have seen for a case in this price range and size. The final two cables that needed some attention are the back and window fan cables. Right now they are the only cables that just dangle through the system. Luckily these are thin cables and do not restrict airflow, but for a nice finish it would be great to have some tie down points for these.

 

 

Build done

 

 

At the end of the build I realized I had not paid attention to how the front door closed. I found a nice touch in the front of the case where the door that access the power and reset buttons, and drive bays use magnets to keep the doors latched shut.

 

Performance

Maybe it was luck or skill or a bit of both but the system turned on the first time with everything running fine. The four included fans connected to the two fan controllers cooled the system well even on the lowest setting. You can just start to tell how the blue nightlights show in this running photo.

 

 

Systems runs

 

 

The system I have is not particularily taxing on the CPU, front side bus (FSB) or random access memory (RAM) heat but the 285 video card heat output can bring a poorly cooled case to its knees. I found that I was able to maintain very good GPU (low) temperatures even on the lowest fan speed. My load testing was to play COD4 at the highest settings for my system.

Pricing

NZXT has said that the Lexa S will be available in September [2009] at an MSRP of $69.99. Doing a quick check I found pricing from $69.99 to $82.99 on the web [Sept 2009].

Modification

This case has some great low barrier to entry modification points for new modding enthusiasts. There are tons of possibilities but here are some I thought of right away.

  1. Replace all the plastic thumbscrews with nice aluminum thumb screws.
  2. Put some time into cable management and get sleeving mesh on all of the visible cables.
  3. Consider a paint job on the screen grills covering the 5.25", 3.5", lower bezel grill and rear slot covers. Consider a color match to thumb screws and cables.
  4. With the big clear panel you could do nice things with colored lights and or UV light and reactive cables and sleeving.

 



Last Updated (Sunday, October 04 2009 13:58)